For a few years the beauty aisle was dominated by famous faces, as singers, actors and reality stars launched lines of their own. In 2022 a different kind of founder started to take shelf space: the dermatologist.
Not a new idea
Doctor-led brands have existed for decades. Dermatologist Howard Murad founded Murad in 1989, Fredric Brandt launched Dr. Brandt Skincare in the 1990s, and Dennis Gross started his line in 2000. What changed in 2021 and 2022 was the pace. Several new dermatologist-founded ranges arrived within a few months, many of them targeting specific needs such as adult acne, teenage skin or the link between skin and diet.
Big retailers helped. Sephora and Ulta Beauty both expanded their offer of so-called clinical or expert-backed skin care, giving new doctor-founded brands a route to mass shoppers.
Why now
Social media is a large part of the answer. Many dermatologists built big followings on Instagram and TikTok by explaining ingredients and debunking viral trends, and a product line was a natural next step for an audience that already trusted them. Shoppers have also become more interested in ingredients, concentrations and clinical testing than in packaging alone.
Labels such as dermatologist tested have long been common, but they have no legal definition and can mean anything from a single consultation to a full clinical trial. A brand whose founder formulates the products and puts their medical name on them offers a different kind of reassurance.
What to keep in mind
- A medical degree on the label does not replace an appointment. Persistent acne, rashes or changing moles need a consultation.
- Prices are often in the premium range, so compare active ingredients and concentrations with cheaper products that do the same job.
- Look for published testing details rather than general promises.
The money involved explains the interest. Industry estimates put the global skin-care market at well over 100 billion dollars a year, and expert-led brands are now competing for a growing share of it.
Sources: brand histories and launch announcements of Murad, Dr. Brandt and Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, retailer announcements by Sephora and Ulta Beauty (2021-2022), Statista skin-care market estimates.